Galapagos Islands
For many. the Galapagos Islands are bucket list destination, to go see some of the nature, animals and inhabitants of the islands. As a nature preserve, there is a wide variety of wildlife to explore, many that are endemic to the Galapagos Islands. Whether it is birds, iguana, fish, the giant tortoises or other marine life, there is much to see there.
To get there, visitors will first fly into either Guayaquil or Quito in Ecuador, stay for one or more nights before flying to the Galapagos islands. The airport on Baltra island is small but in keeping with the nature preserve is very ecofriendly, largely built form parts recycled from the prior airport, and utilizing solar and wind power for electricity. From the airport, buses then take you out to the docks where you will board boat to your liveaboard ship. If you stay in Guayaquil in the Santa Ana region, there are many cafes along the river, several art galleries along, even explore the steps to the top of Santa Ana Hill, with numerous displays of the rich Ecuador navy history.
There are only 6 liveaboard dive boats in the Galapagos islands. On the Tiburon Explorer, there are two master chefs, so each meal is incredibly delicious, whether it is an omelet for breakfast, tacos for lunch or Creme Brulte for dessert. The service is excellent and the staff all friendly. They help you get your gear on, help you into and out of the inflatables, and take care of all your needs.
Diving in the Galapagos presents a multitude of challenges and is best suited for experienced divers. The water temperature can range from mid 60's to upper 70's, there can be calm waters or strong currents, visibility can range from better than 60 feet to less than 10 feet, all depending on the site you dive. Usually, you will see all of these conditions during a weeklong trip. Dives are done from inflatables, to put you on the sites too rough or shallow for the mother ship.
On the first dive day, we start out with a checkout dive at North Baltra. I think most divers were surprised by how much additional weight they need. For myself, I would normally dive with 14 pounds in my 7mm wetsuit with an 80 CF steel tank. In the Galapagos, with the same wetsuit and an 80 CF aluminum tank, I needed 26 pounds. One of the other guests was also surprised by how much extra weight was required. Even on that first dive, we find new sights, including a tiger snake eel and chocolate chip star. Next we move a short way to Mosquera, a wall dive, where some saw a Galapagos shark. The visibility was maybe 30 feet so staying with your buddy is important, but already seeing large schools of fish, from Galapagos grunt, blue and gold snapper, razor surgeonfish and more!
The next day, we move to Isla Fernandina, the largest and newest island in the Galapagos. Many of the divers had a wonderful time snorkeling with sea lions, the first time seeing them. Later, we moved to Cabo Duglas, a shallow site (maximum depth maybe 20 feet), we scuba dove with the marine iguanas, watching them swimming on the surface, and climbing on the rocks underwater grazing on algae. After lunch, the ship moved to Punta Vicente Roca, with visibility maybe 10 feet through the first 60 feet roughly, before opening up to maybe 40 feet. We saw a mola mola, but visibility did not lend itself to good pictures, and it swam off before we could get closer. On the second dive at this same site, the visibility had decreased to the point where I thought my mask was fogged up, and when I turned on my video lights about halfway through the dive, could finally see 10 to 15 feet. A Galapagos bull head shark was resting until one of the eager divers got too close with a GoPro and scared it off. The Galapagos bull head shark looks a lot like a horn shark found in my home waters of California.
The next day we moved to Wolf Island, a popular spot for sharks. On Coral Aisle, in a more comfortable 77 degree water we go down to about 50 feet, hide next to big rocks and watch the Galapagos shark and scalloped hammerhead sharks swim around, each of us waiting to get the iconic picture of the school of hammerheads. Next was Shark Bay, just a short distance from the previous one. the current was a little strong here, so hiding next to a big rock, perhaps bracing yourself is required to stay and watch the show. Finally, we went to Landslide, where the current was so strong that trying to take a picture with my camera with an 8 inch dome was just not possible, and I had to hold on to the rock the entire time.
The day after, we moved to Darwin island, location of the famed Darwin Arch. The arch fell down about 2 years ago, and now it is more like the Darwin Pinnacles. Temperatures were in the mid 70's, and another strong current, especially when swimming against the current on the first dive. A whale shark that swam above us, so we only saw the bottom. The second and third dives were at this same location, except in a way more suitable for the current. A whale shark was spotted very near the surface between the second and third dives, and many people jumped into the inflatable to go snorkel for a close look at it.
Returning to Wolf Island the next day for more shark pictures, I also get pictures of a moray eel, and a turtle swimming right towards me.
Finally on the last dive day, we went to Cousins Rock at San Salvador Island. This is a small rock, but many animals, including a sea lion, several white tip sharks, some eels. In the dive briefing we were told there may be sea horses, but none were found. On the second dive the other divers reported seeing a school of eagle rays. That was the end of diving for the trip, since most divers were flying back the next day. The afternoon provided the opportunity to go to Santa Cruz island where we could see some of the giant tortoise, then have dinner in Punta Ayora, the largest (and only) city on the island.